Friday, December 7, 2012

How to distinguish between Deep Autumn and Deep Winter

The two deep palettes: similarities and differences
Both Deep Autumn and Deep Winter are characterized by being strong and richly coloured palettes. They are also the most extended in most parts of the world, where the population falls neatly into these two seasons.

Similarities:
  • Both have dark hair.
  • Both have a strong eye colour (brown, hazel, green).
  • Both palettes look good in bold primary colours, and bad in pastels. 
  • Both can wear black around their face and black and white (off-white, ivory) and other high-contrast prints around their faces without looking washed out. 
While it is natural that there should be some confusion between Deep Autumns and Deep Winters, it is important to know to which one you belong to. Deep Winters look truly awful in colours that are great on Deep Autumns, and viceversa.
Betty Suárez and Agent Diana Barrigan. These two Deep Winters don't look good in Deep Autumn shades. In the case of Betty Suárez, the wrong palette was used to make her appear less atractive than she actually is. Diana Barrigan, I'm afraid, just does not know which colours look good on her. Searching for photos to know which was her palette, I found she was often dressed in Autumn colours with neutral makeup and sometimes in Winter colours with warm makeup.



Differences:
  • Deep Autumns look good in warmer deep colours and Deep Winters in cold deep colours (if you cannot tell the difference between warm and cold shades of a colour, you may like to read How to distinguish between shades of the same colour 1).
  • Deep Autumns can take highlights in mahogany, rust, terracotta, and Deep Winters look best with highlights in brown or burgundy shades, although their natural white and gray hair makes for greater and more interesting contrast.
  • When they go gray, Deep Autumns' white hair is yellowy (a much paler version of their natural hair colour: it might be best to use a dye in the shades mentioned in the previous point), while Deep Winters go gradually salt and pepper (when this process is finished most of them will actually be Cool Winters).
  • Metallics: Deep Autumns look great wearing gold, copper, and brass (and just blah in silver), while Deep Winters look luminous in silver.
Deep Winter (left) versus Deep Autumn (right). Notice how the two palettes have very different sensibilities.

    The test
    To test the difference try the following colours around your face, at a shop or at home (if you don't know how to, you may like to read How to distinguish between shades of the same colour 2):
    1. salmon pink vs. magenta
    2. ivory vs. optic white
    3. light peach vs. icy pink
    4. egg yolk vs. lemon yellow
    5. mustard vs. mint
    6. pewter vs. silver 
    UPDATE (22nd April 2013)
    I keep on receiving comments and emails about this topic, so I'm adding the following:
    1. You need to be able to distinguish yourself between colours, that is, to tell what is mint from what is mustard. Read How to distinguish between shades of the same colour Part 1 carefully and then Part 2. Nothing can replace your own knowledge of colours.
    2. People, you DO need to make the test yourselves with the key colours I refer above. You cannot send me a description of yourselves, however good it may be. I'm not a magician (although it would be nice to be one)1
    3. If you still have doubts, you need to send me photographs of yourselves wearing  the shades above (NOT others: a lot of palettes look good in some colours, which are considered neutral for that very same reason, and a bunch other colours are common between different palettes, so none of those would not be of no use to me), wearing no makeup and in neutral daylight (i.e. not golden sunset or blistering midday sun) around your faces. You may think I'm being a very strict, but I have been sent photographs of people wearing, makeup hats, wearing sunglasses, in front of the computer with a web-cam by night... you name it! I love you all, but if you want me to take your question seriously and pour over your case, I need the right tools and also, to know that you are taking the same trouble about the matter as I am.
    I await your feedback!

    Deep lipstick colours. I have chosen two characters and shown them next to their lipstick palettes to make it clearer how fundamentally different they are. Liz Lemon (played by Tina Fey) looks great in orange, Betty Suárez (played by América Ferrera) will never do. In the same way, Betty Suárez (post "transformation") looks great in raspberry, while Liz Lemon will not.


    MORE? Related posts:



    42 comments:

    1. Hi Caroline! Stumbled across your epic blog in an attempt to settle once and for all what my colours are! There is an intense debate raging: my mom insists I am a clear spring, my best friend is certain I am a deep winter, and yet I have always been certain I have warm undertones to my skin! I have dark brown hair, green eyes with gold centers, black eyebrows and eyelashes, and my skin is extremely fair but has warm undertones (i thought!). Any thoughts on how to settle this?

      ReplyDelete
    2. Hi Emily!
      Thanks for your mail! It is indeed an epic effort and you made me laugh out loud, so thanks for that!
      Well, judging from the photo you have on your profile, you really do not look like a Deep Winter to me. I think you could certainly be a Clear Spring, but I would need to see bigger and better photos of you wearing different colours in daylight. Do you usually wear lots of blues (up to navy) and purples? Or do you gravitate towards dark brown, golden brown, terracotta and bronze? I ask because you seem to be wearing a pattern with some kind of warm yellow inside...
      Hope this helps!
      Caroline
      PS: Any photos you decide to send me remain, of course, private. Some people create a Google Picasa album and invite me to see it. These invitations are temporary and expire after a while (I'm not sure how long).
      [Emily and I are continuing this conversation by mail]

      ReplyDelete
    3. Hi Caroline! Having confidently stated I am a Deep Autumn elsewhere in comments, I am having doubts this week. I was "done" as a deep winter by Color Me Beautiful a few years ago, but shopping last week, it now doesn't seem to fit so well, help! At the time she said I was "at the cool end of warm" and my pale ivory skin seems to have got even paler with age. It is slightly warmer when held against friends who have pink skin and blue eyes, but usually a lot paler too - certainly not the glowing warmth of many Autumns I see examples of online. My hair is darkish golden brown, dyed lighter than it used to be as there's now a lot of grey underneath. My eyes are dark olive green with golden brown spots in them, although they read as dark brown at a distance - you would have to peer at me in a good light to see they are green at all! Worryingly, I tried on a deep shocking pink dress last week (Shiaparelli pink) and it suited me better than orange tones which made me look hot and red in the face _ I am confused as to where I stand now, any help you can give me would be appreciated! Trisha

      ReplyDelete
    4. Hi, Trisha!
      Well, it’s pretty much impossible to tell anyone’s season from a description, although you do sound like an Autumn or a Spring, but I DO need photos. Can you send me photos of you in the daylight, without as much makeup as possible, wearing key colours? Anything you send me will remain private, of course!
      Kind regards,
      Caroline
      PS: When one gets older, skin becomes muted, so strong colours that were previously flattering may start being too harsh. Theoretically, one moves towards the colours belonging to the softer palettes…

      ReplyDelete
    5. Hi, Caroline!
      Your blog was really helpful as I think it confirmed what I thought before, the fact that I am a Deep Winter. But today my mother told me I looked better in orange than in pink, which brought me to confusion (again!). My hair is dark brown, a rather ashy brown, my eyes are also dark brown (from a distance) but leaning towards dark hazel, and my skin is medium-olive I guess (something like America Ferrera). My veins are mostly blue but I have a few that are purple. If you could give me any advice, I would really appreciate! Marion

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Hi Marion!
        I don't know how it happens, but every once in a while a comment just gets lost among others and if ever find it it's been months! I'd recommend anyone interested in doing so using the "Contact Caroline" mail provided, I NEVER miss those.
        Please, to help me help you, do follow the instructions I have included under the "Update" at the end of the post above, OK?
        Regards,
        Caroline

        Delete
    6. Hi Caroline, thank you for an fabulous blogg! It is most helpfull. Though I have problems to deside whether I am a deep winter or a deep autum. I hope you can help me to sort it out. -Monica

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Hi Monica!
        Do read my update above, OK?
        Regards,
        Caroline

        Delete
      2. =) Thank you for your reply Caroline! It is good to see that I am not the only one struggling. But since it took some time before you answered my mail, I started to read carefully what you had written. And I went to my closet and found some optic wite and lemon yellow clothes that I had. And luckily I also found a egg yolk coloured scarf that was hidden in there, as well. I asked my daughter what colour she thought looked good on me, and we were both agreed that the only colour of those three was the egg yolk. And in fact i know for sure that I dont suit silver. Then I printed out the color map for deep autum that you have made. And I went to the shop, and for the first time in my life I felt comfortable with my choice of colour. I bought a forest green jumper . And a orange T- shirt. Then I gave away all my optic wite clotes(That I had lots of;))I feel much better when I am dressing up now, and I have also started getting compliments from other too. It is soo great! Thanks a lot for your help, Caroline.

        Delete
      3. Hi there!
        I'm so very happy to have helped! I write my posts with a lot of care and my aim is alwyas to give information that will make every reader able to be their own best stylist, and maybe even their friends':D The feelings you're describing are exactly what I was aiming for: confidence and self-assuredness.
        I'd love to see some photos of you wearing your new colours. Do try, please :).
        Love,
        Caroline
        PS: I am EXTREMELY happy, actually!

        Delete
    7. Hi Caroline,

      I did send you some photos by email, did you get them? Its Easter time, so you may well be very busy! I think you're right though, I may still be deep autumn in the main, although as you say somewhere, there's often some overlap between deep autumn and deep winter. The deep pink that worked on me was quite a warm pink in natural light - like the pink glints in your autumn leaf collages somewhere on your site, so obviously tones in with the autumnal greens and golds. I take your point about the the nuances of colour being debated to exhaustion, it can get very tedious. On the whole I think CMB works very well and may I say, your photos of clothes and combinations of them - the way you put them together - are quite inspiring, much, much better than elsewhere, it helps so much to see what it all means with actual examples. Thanks so much, Trisha

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Hi Trisha,
        I´m sorry I haven't got back to you earlier, but I do have to announce that I have passed SFI (svenska för invandrare, Swedish for immigrants), the equivalent to a First Certificate in English, with flying colours! A lot of effort, let me tell you!
        I'm afraid I never got your photos. Can you try again or provide the subject for the email? I have searched my Inbox for "Trisha" but haven't found anything but the two messages I have already published from you.
        Regards,
        Caroline

        Delete
    8. Hello Caroline, this is a wonderful comparison and really helps me narrow it down. I know I'm a deep something, but I'm not sure because my veins are more blue which looks best with silver and I guess everything points to deep winter because I wear jeweled toned colors best, but I live in Florida now and am a little tanner, so I was wondering if you could help diagnose my color palette. I adore pink and find it hard to pick a color that doesn't clash. I'm clueless really after reading so many websites with conflicting confusing information.

      It's been awhile since this post has been done, but I would SO appreciate the help!

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Hi Elydia!
        Do read my update above, OK?
        Regards,
        Caroline

        Delete
    9. Hi Caroline,
      One friend pegged me as a Deep Winter, another as a True Autumn. I think I might be a Deep Autumn though. I have dark brown hair with a red cast in the sun, dark red brown eyes, and light tan skin. I wore a pastel blue shirt for an ugly sweater party and looked like a zombie. My skin and eyes were a weird gray color. And some of the True Autumn colors seem to wash me out whereas the Deep Winter palette is pretty but justs sits on my skin. Help me please! Love the site by the way, so helpful :)
      Best, Melanie

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Hi Melanie,
        I don't know how, but this comment must have got buried among others and have just seen it and published it, SO sorry!
        Please, do follow the instructions above (there is an update to the post)to help me determine your season, and thanks for the comment about the site in any case!
        Regards,
        Caroline

        Delete
    10. Hi there, i'm a newbie. Great blog, great post. Easy to follow and understand. For the first time I fully understand why I make mistakes shopping even though I know I'm a winter! I was thinking intense or icy. I didn't know I am a Deep Winter, and that the 'mistakes' I make are getting intensely coloured things that are from the Deep Autumn side.
      Would it be possible for you to make the differences test into a visual as well? I love the idea of the dresses, but I am not sure what you mean by certain colours.

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Hi!
        Thanks for your comment! I'm afraid I don't really understand what you mean by "make it into a visual"... Could you elaborate, please?
        Off the top of my head I can suggest that you try to compare the full photos of the palettes together to see the difference between the reds, blues, yellows, etc. of each palette under the light of the explanation provided in the posts "How to distinguish between shades of the same colour"
        http://redandlipstick.blogspot.se/2012/05/how-to-distinguish-between-shades-of.html
        Then follow the thread from there! Good luck!
        Regards,
        Caroline

        Delete
    11. Hi Caroline,

      What a fabulous blog! I especially love this post and the information presented here. For most of my life, I've been told that I'm a winter with cool-toned skin, but in recent years I've started to question that. I'm at the point in my life (40 years old, past the intense child-bearing and baby stage) where I want to invest in clothes that suit me and make me feel wonderful. I seem to be at an impasse until I can finally determine if I'm a deep winter or deep autumn. I've taken pictures of myself in natural light, no make-up, no flash in the colors suggested above. Unfortunately, I'm doing a terrible job figuring it out myself and I've gotten mixed reviews from those who have looked at my photos :-/ I'd love to link you to my google album so you could take a look. It would mean the world to me actually :) Thank you so much for compiling all this information and for any personal help you might be able to give me <3

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Hi there!
        I'm glad you like the blog, I haven't posted anything lately because it was a ton of work and I'm kind of busy now. I'm really happy that the information is there and is useful to people...
        Do send me that link, I'll have a look at it as soon as I can. Do use my email account, it is featured in the "Contact Caroline" page at the top of the blog.
        Regards,
        Caroline

        Delete
      2. Perfectly understand. I am 48 and past the years of child bearing (6) and notice changes and want to spend money wisely and get my look happening properly. Ive been typed as deep winter, cool winter, deep autumn and told that if I lightened my hair i would be a summer. God have mercy. Someone needs to be specific on this. Myer used to do this for people. Alas, they don't anymore

        Delete
    12. Hi there!
      I'm glad you like the blog, I haven't posted anything lately because it was a ton of work and I'm kind of busy now. I'm really happy that the information is there and is useful to people...
      Do send me that link, I'll have a look at it as soon as I can. Do use my email account, it is featured in the "Contact Caroline" page at the top of the blog.
      Regards,
      Caroline

      ReplyDelete
    13. Hi Carline,

      Thank you so much for your posts. I have recently taken an interest in styling and am quite young. I stumbled onto your blogs after looking into color analysis and this site has helped me understand so much about it. Thank you for that! I know that I must be a deep winter or a deep autumn, but still not a 100% sure. I was always told that I had warm undertone and my veins do look green. I have really black hair, brown eyes, and I have light/medium brown skin (My skin color is quite hard to describe because different parts of my body has different tones. I have a lighter brown face, though my arms are a dull brown due to tans).I find that the colors for the deep winter palette look better on me than the deep autumns. I find this particularly true for the lipstick colors recommended. I would love it if you could share your thoughts about this.

      Thanks,

      Abby

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Hi Abby,
        Thanks for your comment, I'm very happy that you find my blog useful! Please, do follow the instructions I have included in "Contact Caroline" to help me determine your season :)
        Regards,
        Caroline

        Delete
    14. Hi Caroline,

      I found your blog while googling about seasonal color analysis and I find it very informative. Nevertheless I still confuse regarding my color palette.

      First I was so sure that I'm a deep autumn but my friend said I am deep winter.

      I'm asian with black brown hair and eyes. My skin is fair but I couldn't figure out my undertone.

      My vein color are quite intriguing cause I see blue and green at equal amount.

      I will send you my picture but will it work if I use icy pink and gold? Please help me.

      Thanks,
      Rose

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Hi Rose,
        Thanks for your comment. Do read the "Contact Caroline" page at the top or follow the instructions at the update at the end of the post above to help me help you.
        Regards,
        Caroline

        Delete
    15. Hi Caroline,

      You're blog is wonderful, its easy to understand. I'm a deep autumn by the way.

      My question is, can you recommend a color swatch book that I can purchase to help me when I shop for outfits?
      There are a few out there sold on ebay and other websites but I am not sure which one to get.

      Thank you for your help.

      Regards,

      Mel

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Hi Mel,
        I own several books about seasonal colour, and can you believe the palettes are horrible in all of them? I am publishing in a while a post with a palette you can print and take with you. It's photo quality, so if you have photographic paper, that would be the best!
        Regards,
        Caroline
        PS: Does anyone know of a book with actual good palettes inside one can take with herself when shopping?

        Delete
    16. hi can you tell me what season could I be?I have light brown /very dark blonde hair . The are grey brown but some of hair has red refleks.my eyes are cold amber with grey -green spots, and they also has very dark grey/black round over the pupil. my skin is cold and light with some grey-brown fleckes. I get tan quickly and it is olive.my favourite colours are black, royal blue, bright violet, but I look very good in dark cholcolate, I can wear camel, rust doesn't look very bad on me, cherry, grey is excellent for me. I hate dirty colours and pastels, olive, orange,tomato- I look washed and sick. My eyebrows and eyelashes are not dark ,the are medium ( eyelashes are light). My face without make up look like face of the light type - it's delicate, but eyes and hair are dark,and my favourite colours are dark.I dont know exacly if I can wear bright colours - I am not sure...ANd I don't know what type I am:)

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Hi there!
        Do follow the instructions in "Contact Caroline" under "Questions about the palettes (6th May 2013)", OK?
        Regards,
        Caroline

        Delete
    17. Hello,
      this is truly eye opener to me. This explains why I am not able to find anything flattering. I believed I was winter and always picked cold colours ending up looking bad. Now I see clearly that my colours should be deep autumn. Thanks a million for this page.
      I have two questions: I have tons of grey things. Is there any shade of grey that I could combine with the deep autumn palatte? Which of the autumn colours would you recommend to add to my current grey (cold) wardrobe during my transition period?
      Many thanks for your replay.
      Barca

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Hello, Barca,
        You're very welcome!
        Which shade of gray
        I'd look for a medium gray that is not cool (some amount of brown or beige inside would be fine). Try placing all your gray things on the bed and try to order them according to coolness and warmth. If you own quite a lot of gray items, the task will be more the easier.
        Which Autumn colours to add?
        I would need a lengthier explanation on this... do you mean how to wear the pieces you already have in a gray that is not flattering?
        Regards,
        Caroline

        Delete
    18. Are the colors in #2 (optic white vs. ivory) reversed from the other colors in the list? Everything else seems to be Autumn first, then Winter, but ivory would be Autumn, right?

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Hi Rachel,
        Thanks for pointing that out! But now I wonder... wouldn't it be better to mix the colours so readers aren't predisposed to like a specific column? Must ponder over that...
        Regards,
        Caroline

        Delete
    19. Hi. So this may seem a little fruity but I'm a 19 year old guy and just wanted to know what colors looked best on me and I came across this blog. Could you take a guess as to what season I am by my profile picture? I think I'm a deep autumn...thanks.

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Hi,
        I salute your wanting to know what colours look best on you. I can't see any profile picture, but in any case, it is better that you follow the instructions here or under "Contact Caroline", OK? Thanks.

        Delete
    20. Hi,

      I am attempting to figure out what colors work best on me; but, I am not sure if I am a Deep Autumn or Warm Autumn. What do you think?

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Hi Neikata,
        I can only see one picture of you, although I have to say it's a great one and you look beautiful! I'm inclined to think you are a Deep Autumn. Although a lot of Deep Autumns dye their hair red and look great on it, it does not mean they have changed their palette completely, they will still be able to take black and black brown well, while Warm Autumns will find they look more luminous in chocolate and bronze...
        If you want to discuss the matter further, do not hesitate to contact me through the "Contact Caroline" section, OK?
        Best wishes,
        Caroline

        Delete
    21. Hello Caroline!

      This is a wonderful blog for those who don't know the first thing about dressing themselves (me). Like many of the commenters here, the deep winter vs. deep autumn debate has been keeping me from making any fashion choices besides wearing black.

      Deciding if I am a warm or a cool has proven difficult by itself; I have blue veins, dark hair, and pale skin that flushes easily. . .however, I have hazel eyes, some freckles on my face, and I don't have the hardest time tanning, either.

      I was excited to find this amazing corner of the internet and I promptly tried The Test. Unfortunately, this had to be conducted in stores, and as you mention, the lighting can be less than supportive when trying to find what colors suits one best. Some of the colors from the cool palette were absolute failures (icy pink and mint) the pastels just made me look ill. However, I just couldn't decide how I felt about many of the other colors, and often times, I wasn't even sure if I was choosing the right shades (especially those from the yellow family)! As suggested, I wasn't wearing any makeup at the time, and it's possible that I was just distracted by the fact that I thought I looked peaked no matter what I was wearing.

      I have a salmon colored shirt that I think looks decent on me (unless I am totally off in my estimations). Would sending a picture help in settling this debate once and for all?

      Thank you for your help and this truly awesome blog!

      -MacKenzie

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Hi MacKenzie,
        Thanks for your comment. You're very welcomed to the blog and commenting on it. Do send me photographs of yourself, by all means. Follow the instructions on "Contact Caroline" above, although you can start with any photographs (plural, I don't know if I could do anything with just one) of you that you think could help me determine your season.
        Hope to hear from you soon!
        Caroline

        Delete
    22. Hi Caroline,

      This site seems like it would FINALLY end this debate over my skintone and put a conclusion to what SEASON am i exactly!!! I just emailed you a picasa link to my photographs. Absolutely loved your blog!!!
      You've been very helpful to people to help them discover their season type and would be grateful if you could help me determine my type. I am an asian, I have dark brown hair (have started greying recently!!), hazel eyes and Would be between pale and fair. Thanks a ton for your help :)

      ReplyDelete
    23. Hi Caroline,

      Thank you for your very helpful blog! I still have one question: From the colours that flatter me and make me look best, I'd say I'm a dark autumn, definitely dark.
      Yet I don't fit the description, only my eyes really fit (very dark brown that often seem black, high contrast, the white of the eyes quite bright and clear).
      My skin is evenly pale, I think it has a warm undertone but it is hard to say; no freckles or anything.

      But my hair is not dark at all. It's hard to say now because I dye them a completely different colour every few years, but it can't be much darker than 7.3 (medium golden blonde), maybe even 8.3 with a litte red in it. As a child the red was even stronger and I always looked good with red henna.

      Does my appearence HAVE to fit the descriptions? Especially as I hardly find any description including very dark brown eyes AND slightly reddish blonde hair.
      My guess would be to rather try out what fits me best than to search for descriptions that fit both my eyes and my hair, yet it still makes me wonder if I'm on the right track at all.

      Thank you very much!
      Teresa

      ReplyDelete