Saturday, December 28, 2013

Shapewear: Bodysuits

Best Thing Ever: Bodysuits, Bodybriefs, Singlets...
Bodysuits are the perfect under garment support for women looking for a seamless, line-free silhouette. Regardless of the name they receive, bodysuits move with the body and provide a fuss-free experience of control underwear. They are the modern version of the slip, really. Remember those satin and lace creations every woman in Falcon Crest and Dynasty seemed to be wearing under her dress? I never got to wear one, as they had gone out of fashion when I reached adulthood, but I now see their point completely.
I find them incredibly convenient and are my go-to option now since I tried and bought one last year. I was living then in Sweden, and being comfortable (but pretty) cycling everywhere was my top priority. Also, if a naughty breeze threatened to show everything I had to the world (not that anyone would care, Swedes are above that), this was a great option.
Finally, as you probably very well know, after a certain age our bodies just start changing, and any hormonal changes are quickly reflected on them. Alas, the firmness of your skin changes with your menstrual cycle, (every) pregnancy and post-pregnancy and, on top of that, you may also experience sometimes considerable water retention. Undergarments or hosiery that previously fit just great, now start to dig in, waistlines that are great part of the month turn into torture devices at other times...
Bodysuits are a good answer to those needs.

PROs
Bodysuits provide:
  • A second-skin fit, moving with you. 
  • Elimination of back rolls and pantie lines.
  • Thigh, tummy and rear control, light to firm depending on your preference. For instance, my mother hates wearing anything tight, so she goes light control and one size up. 
  • A warm extra layer in the cold. For instance, Spanx's Slim Cognito is made with a hosiery material that is very nice and warm in winter, but nightmarish over 18°C. I remember  almost fainting once while wearing Spanx's Power Panties on a summer day... Ah, vanity... Choose a different material for winter and summer.
  • A convenient open gusset. At the beginning, you did wear them at your own peril: you had to strip down completely when going to the toilet and then get back into them. Now, all I know provide a cotton gusset that overlaps, with no hooks or snaps for bathroom convenience.
CONs
  • Pricey, but well worth it, in my opinion. Just choose well where to invest your money.
  • Possible unibottom (i.e. the appearance you're wearing a nappy). Choose one that divides your bottom in two halves under trousers like Maidenform's  Flexees Singlet.
  • Cozy and warm in winter can turn into a possible hot nightmare in spring and summer: think about the material, as I mentioned above.
  • The WYOB styles do create a push-up effect you may want to avoid (or not, but be aware of it before leaving the house).


Shapewear: Bodysuits

Shapewear: Bodysuits by Caroline Grant. Ms. Gibson is wearing Spanx's Slimplicity Open-Bust Mid-Thigh Bodysuit and, over it, Spanx's Fashion Polka Dot Sheers. As she is a paper doll, she doesn't feel the cold in the same way we would...
The bra and hosiery issue
You may be wondering... What about the bra?
  1. You can either wear your own bra (WYOB, as it is known in the business), or 
  2. Choose a model with its own bra, either with underwire (ideally removable) that provides the support you need (cups B or C) or no underwire (cup A). In the latter case, cups could be added between bodysuit and body, for modesty, re-shaping or prosthetic purposes.
And the hosiery? I think the best option is to wear them over the bodybrief. They will be easy to pull down (as they will slide over the material better than over the skin), and they will dig in less. I sometimes wear high-waisted tights under my bodybrief, but I can't say it's the most comfortable thing in the world...

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MORE? Follow the tag Shapewear.

Saturday, December 21, 2013

Chunky Knits: DOs and DONTs

DONTs
I talked about chunky sweaters a couple of weeks ago (you can read it here), and now it's the turn of chunky knits in general.
  1. Knit pieces worn as jackets won't keep you warm even in the slightest winter wind, which will seep through a million holes. If you want your knit to be warm, you will need to choose one with a very tight stitch or a very fuzzy yarn (like mohair) and optimaly, lined. An al
  2. The quality of knits has been steadily falling for more than a decade and most high-street shops sell garments that will last less than a season, which is a waste and a shame. Sometimes you may get luck and find something nice, but you do have to look long and hard for it. Always check the label for the composition and learn to differentiate good from bad knits.
  3. Silly or cutesy motives are, in my view, a juvenile option for us ladies. Best avoid.
  4. Thick, chunky, baggy, and oversized? Think again: your whole shape will be hidden from sight and you will be all volume. This is, needless to say, something to avoid for ALL body types and ALLsizes except the slim and tall (as usual). Trust me, wearing voluminous garments will never make a person look slimmer, quite the contrary, it will transform her into a ball (Body type As and Bs), or an ice cream cone (Body type Cs). If you are petite, the item will dwarf you. I'm guessing that's not what you want. Skimming is ALWAYS better than oversized or skin-tight.
DOs
  1. Choose your best colours. You can read about them following each season palette labels.
  2. Choose your best shapes among the classics: turtleneck, crew neck, boat neck... You can read about them following each body shape label.
  3. Choose the very best possible quality materials. That means virgin wool or cashmere and blends with silk, cotton, etc. Avoid acrylic, polyester and other synthetic fibres: they make you sweat and do not age well, loosing form with each wash and peeling. Good knits are not cheap, but pay for themselves in time when the age well and last at least several seasons. Buy classic shapes in sales or at outlets or second hand through eBay or www.vente-privee.com.
  4. Take care of your knits, hand washing or using a laundry bag in the washing machine and choosing a program with no spinning and no tumble drying. Use cold water. Wool garments cannot be spinned, especially in warm to hot water, without shrinking splendidly. 
  5. Make sure you can deal with it if you choose angora. Angora will shed hair everywhere and on everything and everyone. I love the material, but all my basic coats are in black, so... no way I'm using it, not even for a beret. You can also consider taking a lint brush everywhere you...
What to favour:
A cardigan jacket that you can wear belted or not, as a great mid-season alternative to a coat. Look at yourself in the mirror and:
  • Cinch the cardigan at your slimmest point, effectively regaining your shape. Choose a two-inch belt as a general rule to do so, or slightly less or more depending on how short (or long) your torso is.
  • Take care to arrange the gathered material strategically to achieve the most flattering silhouette.

Velvet Trousers

Belted Cardigan Jacket by Caroline Grant. [Style: Urban Tweed].

The play on green creates a tonal colour combination that results in a long unbroken line. A great way to wear many shades of the same colour is mixing textures and prints.
The pencil trousers are best for those slim, or average body type Cs. If you are heavy on top, beware of creating and ice cream cone effect: opt for a pair of straight cut trousers instead.
The shoes are Hispanitas, comfortable and splendid quality, as usual.


Lanvin Slim Fit Velvet Trousers / Peter Som Blouse / Ralph Lauren Shawl Collar Cardigan / Marni Edition Printed Tote / Hispanitas Laces Pumps / Butler and Wilson Laughing Dragon Brooch / Jane Norman Pyramid Ring / Dolce&Gabbana Shine Lipstick in Almond / Dolce&Gabbana Intense Nail Lacquer in Perfection.

Cardigan Jacket

Cardigan Jacket by Caroline Grant. [Style: Modern Classic].

The lilac pendant and gloves are a nice detail in a very sober combination of winter colours, although there is some shine and texture in the outfit.
The cardigan jacket's pattern creates interesting shapes: first, there are two black vertical lines, drawing the eye up and down, then there are the diagonal lines created by how the garment hangs.
The boots are probably impossible to wear for those who cannot take 3.5" heels. but I liked the tassel detail. I guess I can add some to mine...

Max&Co Basketweave Maxi Cardigan / Max&Co Skirt / Max&Co Turtleneck Sweater / Hobbs Harriet Handbag / L.K. Bennett Bonnie Boots / Lulu Frost Necklace / Max&Co Gloves / Urban Decay Palette in Smoked / Tom Ford Lipstick in Pink Dusk / Tom Ford Nail Lacquer in Pink Crush.
A sleeveless cardigan will function pretty much in the same way as the jacket above, but you will need to wear a warm sweater underneath when temperatures drop (cashmere is the go-to option in this case) with possible elbow length gloves.

Sleeveless Cardigan

Sleeveless Cardigan by Caroline Grant. [Style: Ladylike with a Twist].

Sometimes Topshop gets distracted and makes something really nice (and expensive, of course), like this skirt... but then you go to the shop and it's impossible to find it, or anything that is not outrageously teen, come to that.
Grey, black and red is one of my favourite colour combinations, and one that each season can do in its own shades.
I'm forever in love with many Monies creations, although I have to make do (quite nicely, if I may say so) with things I create myself, because their prices are impossible!
COS Sleeveless Cardigan / Topshop Skirt / L.K. Bennett Lyra Top / Hobbs Lucy Boots / Marni Woven Leather Handbag / Monies Necklace / Best Bet Ikat Scarf / Oscar de la Renta Rose Ring / NARS Lipstick in Heat Wave / Tom Ford Nail Lacquer in Dovima.

A chunky sweater in a classic pattern such as Fair Isle, Aran or Gansey, or something Nordic, like a Marius. These and other traditional patterns are no-nonsense pieces that were created to serve a purpose. Go ahead and keep tradition alive, these make for great investment pieces. Obviously, aim at the real thing or ask that special one who knits for you (my sister, in my case). If you have that person, you are fortunate indeed!
Chunky sweaters are perfect for Body type As, as they provide additional volume to the upper body. A bottom that skims the hips and then slowly flares out will keep the silhouette balanced.

Sweater


Sweater by Caroline Grant. [Style: Urban Tweed].

Gray, navy and brown is a very elegant combination that can be accentuated by orange and reddish browns. The hat is a beautiful fedora that goes really well with the trench coat from Hobbs.
Max&Co is one of Max Mara's brands, sold exclusively at their boutiques. A recent acquaintance, who has spent some time in Italy, knew about it and draw my attention to it. Most of what they do is excellently cut and in really good materials. I like their approach to both casual and formal clothes.

Max&Co Basketweave Sweater / Max&Co Trousers / Hobbs Persephone Trench / Patricia Nash Granada Handbag / Max&Co Shoes / Linea Trilby Hat / Oscar de la Renta Knot and Tassel Earrings / Alejandra Ring / Tom Ford Lipstick in Deep Mink / Estée Lauder Nail Lacquer in Purple Velvet.

Chunky Sweater

Cable Sweater by Caroline Grant. [Style: Urban Tweed].

I have talked about trouser-skirts elsewhere in the blog, and although I am aware that they are not exactly popular nowadays, I will continue to do so, as I find them incredibly practical. Aren't they the perfect combination between a skirt and a pair of trousers? And don't they look nice with knee-high boots, giving a very long leg line? They are perfect for bicycling, also.
The yellow cable sweater and the orange hat are cheery additions to an Autumn wardrobe in earth tones, and so are the terracotta lips and nails.
Every season Hispanitas produces different versions of menswear shoes for women, and they do it splendidly. Their handbags are marvelous, if pricey, and both are the perfect addition to anything tweed.

Lauren by Ralph Lauren Antonin Knitted Vest / Band Of Outsiders Chunky Cable-Knit Sweater / Conleys Trouser-skirt / Hispanitas Handbag / Hispanitas Shoes / Kenzo Felt Jockey Cap / Dior Earrings (vintage) /nJoan Shepp Cable Knit Leather Gloves / Marni Brooch / Estée Lauder Pure Color Lipstick in Red Tango/ Revlon Nail Lacquer in Valentine.

Friday, December 20, 2013

Know your velvet

Velvet is for winter
Velvet is warm and soft, the perfect way of adding some colour and texture to your autumn and winter wardrobe. All colours look luxurious in it, and its glow is very flattering.
Every season you can find different on trend this winter as part of the Baroque trend.
  • Velvet is the winter alternative of silk and satin: it offers warmth, opaqueness and texture, it also glows beautifully. All colours look positively luxurious in it.
  • Stay away from polyester, silk and viscose (20-80% and upwards) mixes give the ultimate softness and gloss. Cotton velvet is very warm, and looks less casual than corduroy.
Worthy pieces
  • Trousers, jackets and skirts in velvet are great wardrobe staples if you choose a classic cut. It is worth your while to invest in your neutral green, blue, grey, black and red.
  • Accessories: a purse, a belt or sash, or a hat or beret.
  • A jacket and/or coat for special occasions. It doesn't look good when the guests put on their everyday coat at one of those. If you invest in these pieces, no celebration will catch you unawares.

Velvet Trousers

Velvet: Trousers by Caroline Grant. A great way to wear many shades of warm green mixing textures and prints for a lovely cozy mid season outfit. The play on green creates a long unbroken line, helped by the pointy shoes with a medium heel.
The pencil trousers are best for those slim, or average body type Cs. If you are heavy on top, beware of creating and ice cream cone effect: opt for a straight cut trousers instead.
The cardigan jacket is the best of way of incorporating chunky knits to your wardrobe. 
Do click on the outfit to go to Polyvore if you want to check the dragon brooch. Butler and Wilson create absolutely wonderful dragon brooches.

Lanvin Slim Fit Velvet Trousers / Peter Som Blouse / Ralph Lauren Shawl Collar Cardigan / Marni Edition Printed Tote / Hispanitas Laces Pumps / Butler and Wilson Laughing Dragon Brooch / Jane Norman Pyramid Ring / Dolce&Gabbana Shine Lipstick in Almond / Dolce&Gabbana Intense Nail Lacquer in Perfection.

Velvet: Jacket

Velvet: Jacket by Caroline Grant*. Choosing a top and skirt in the same material and pattern contributes to create a virtual dress and a longer body line. This ones are the fruit of last year's collaboration between Missoni and Lindex. It is also a great option for Body type As and Cs, as they usually need a different size for top and bottom). Cerise or nude tights, please.
The velvet jacket can really be taken anywhere, even the office. I dare you to be elegant every day.

Missoni for Lindex Skirt / Missoni for Lindex Top / Armani Collezione Velvet Jacket / Aspinal of London Brooks St. Workbag / Coast Zoe Signature Handbag / Clarks Asha Booties / Black Lily Jennifer Scarf / Wallis Metal Necklace / Tom Ford Lipstick, Nail Lacquer and Compact in Black Orchid.

Velvet Coat

Velvet: Coat by Caroline Grant. A lovely dress in silk and an Oriental print will always be marvelously elegant. Choose a Western interpretation of an Oriental dress, unless you are Oriental yourself, of course. Here the traditional Mao collar has been substituted by a sort of clerical collar, and the slits by a plissé detail.
Black pearls, in the necklaces and rings will be a great way of adding character to the soft print.
A minaudière (a handheld box-like small handbag) in brocade and a tassel detail continues the Oriental theme discreatly, and will look good with lots of outfits for special events.
I chose this peeptoe shoes for the dress because the colour of the satin was just perfect, but I would buy something with a much lower heel for myself. At weddings and parties, you will stand up for long stretches of time and probably dance, so don't let your shoes ruin the fun! 
Libelula Velvet Coat / La Rue Dress / Kotur Margo Brocade Minaudière Handbag / Badgley Mischka Gayla Peeptoe Shoes / Pure Pearls Black Pearl Necklaces / Alexis Bittar Rings / Tom Ford Lipstick in Wild Ginger / Tom Ford Nail Lacquer in Ginger Fire.



This is the first in the TRL's series How to wear velvet.
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*[Background to the set is Leaves by Dawn LeBlanc (2009) at Fine Art Photo Blog].

Saturday, December 14, 2013

How to choose animal prints

What to choose
Animal prints are demanding, both in personality -none of the animal prints are for the faint-hearted: you do need to have the personality to carry them- and the taste level they require. The classical animal prints are feline and reptile, although you can also find zebra, giraffe.
You can find, of course, other prints but I would advise the utmost caution, because the taste level is always doubtful. Take for instance cow and dog (Dalmatian)...

If you are an animal print woman, you will probably find you have a favourite pattern and will probably stick to it. I am myself a leopard print person, albeit in moderation.

Feline. Leopard is probably the most wearable and subtle and them (a smaller-sized pattern that usually combines tones of the same palette), with ocelot as a close second and tiger slightly behind, as bigger and bolder.

Leopard

Leopard by Caroline Grant. A wearable green dress is not easy to find, especially not one that can be taken to the office or the classroom. Green is also a nice counterpoint to the leopard print.
The leopard trench is great for Body type As: short wide lapels, double breasted and A-line. The shades or beige and brown, quite muted, make it everyday. The necklace continues the "wild" theme started by the trench.
I like the idea of loafers for work, plus a medium kitten-heel with pointy toes because they elongate the leg. However, traditional square-toed loafers look good on most legs and stacked heels are even more comfortable.
Hobbs Angel Trench Coat / Hobbs Elysia Dress / Brooks Brother Handbag / L.K. Bennett Linda Loafer Shoes / Monies Shell Necklace / Gucci Rolo Scarf / Tom Ford Lipstick in Scarlet Rouge / Tom Ford Nail Lacquer in Smoke Red.


Black and Tiger Print

Tiger Print by Caroline Grant. The construction of the LBD is very flattering for all body types: the vertical seams have a slimming effect, while the soft open pleats below the waist can be very forgiving.
The long gloves will keep your arms warm with a cape (or a three-quarter sleeve). These ones are Tory Burch but high-street brands also do long gloves every season in affordable prices.
The necklace, by Hervé van der Straeten can be found in all price lines: a hammered warm metal will always look more expensive than shiny, more wearable and less harsh for more mature complexions. Always go for glow instead of shine.
 The cape is just spectacular, and possible the most subtle tiger print out there.

M Missoni Tiger-print Cape / Reiss Ambrose Curved Dress / Gucci Lady Stirrup Handbag / Nine West Just Right Boots / Tory Burch Opera Gloves / Massimo Alba Wrinkled Scarf / Hervé van der Straeten Necklace / Hervé van der Straeten Bracelet / Tom Ford Lipstick in Wild Ginger / Tom Ford Nail Lacquer in Ginger Fire.

Reptile. Snake is versatile, and has been safely worn by older ladies for decades (in matching sets of handbag and courts), and has fallen in and out of fashion every half decade, with real snake having lagged quite back for most. Lately, new colour combinations and materials have revitalized it quite a bit, adding mostly python-themed items.


DVF Python

Python by Caroline Grant. This DVF skirt is the perfect juxtaposition of shape and colour: square angles against animal print, cobalt blue against black. The colour-blocking is very slimming. You can trust DVF to think about a woman's shape when designing.
The wool trench coat is just the ticket to keep you warm when the temperatures drop.
Good gloves in supple leathers that fit perfectly will last for a decade, so it's worth your while to invest in a good pair in one of your neutral shades.
The court shoes are romantic and ladylike, although a plain bootie would also complement the skirt. Choose one that elongates the line of the leg, so no horizontal lines at the opening.
The lips and nails are kept deliciously neutral while the eyes have to respond to the animal print, so some degree of smokiness in the eye makeup is in order.

DVF Paulina Python Jackard Skirt / Ted Baker Albine Wool Trench Coat / L.K. Bennett Kate Jacket / Gian Battista Valli Silk Ruffle Top / Hobbs Littleton Handbag / L.K. Bennett Molly Court Shoes / Tory Burch Opera Length Gloves / Anton Heunis Ring / Urban Decay Palette in Smoked / Tom Ford Lipstick in Indian Rose / Tom Ford Nail Lacquer in Mink Brule.

Zebra and giraffe. The first is a high-contrast, big-sized pattern and, therefore, not that easy to use for most. I'm not an enthusiast of giraffe, but there are nice things out there.

Zebra

Zebra by Caroline Grant. A dress in simple lines and a neutral shade but interesting details (the black fringe) offers infinite possibilities for different moments of the day. This is day wear, with the neutral shoes (worn with nude pantyhose) and the shopper handbag.
The trench offers a much more subtle version of traditional B&W zebra, which is quite harsh for everybody but Deep Winters.

 Hobbs Totley Mac Coat / Orla Kiely Heavy Wool Dress / Mary Portas for Clarks La Wesley Court Shoes / Zara Two-toned Shopper Handbag / Daniela Swabe Dragon Drop Earrings / Aspinal of London Button Gloves / Asos Belt / Tom Ford Lipstick, Nail Lacquer and Compact in Black Orchid.

Giraffe



Abstract Animal Print by Caroline Grant. At the beginning, I put this print down as giraffe, but after a while I started to have my doubts. I researched giraffe fur patterns and it seems they come in different shades and slightly similar patterns according to subspecies, and none really fitted this one. Then I thought it reminded me of a crocodile, but its not that either. Ergo, abstract animal print. The necklace offers square lines to counterpoint the fluid abstract print.
There is a considerable amount of brown in this set (in the handbag, dress and jacket), but its made interesting by the different textures and print. The yellow in the sandals and in the scarf are a great zany counterpoint to them.

Hobbs Adeline Dress / Mango Suede Cropped Jacket / Radley Rollesby Handbag / Theory Toscana Shoes / Kate Spade New York Pyramid Hill Necklace / Henri Bendel Scarf / Salt Optics Cadence Sunglasses / Estée Lauder Mandarin Solid Perfume Compacts / Tom Ford Lipstick in Wild Ginger / Tom Ford Nail Lacquer in Ginger Fire.
Quality is all-important
Animal prints can go tacky VERY easily. Go for natural fibres like silk, wool, or mixes of them or, in the case of leather, printed calf-skin.
It is better to choose items from reliable brands in whose taste you rely if you are unsure about your own in this matter: let's say less Topshop or H&M (unless handled with extreme care), and more Ann Taylor or Hobbs. That does not mean that really high-end brands cannot be tacky or that high street fashion cannot be spot on, it is more that neither are producing thinking of working women in mind (at least, not realistically), but rather of someone out to make an statement or just experimenting with fashion.
Finally, consider the amount of "sex-appeal" suggested by the print. Italian designers do propose, agresively and well, sexy animal print pieces in the "hammer-to-the-head" modality. Think, for instance, in Cavalli or D&G, not to mention Versace. If this is what you want, well, now you know where to get it. If it is not, you can always choose a scarf by them. Every woman should do what she very well pleases in this subject although, unfortunately, you will fare better if you consider this issue first.
In any case, enjoy your animal prints!

Thursday, December 12, 2013

How to choose a full skirt: DOs and DONTs

A flattering length
In the case of full skirts, a short length can look juvenile as not streamlined enough (apart from the fact that you can look like you wearing a tutu), while longer styles are difficult to wear, as you can look decidedly frumpy or be overwhelmed by the amount of material. Just above or just below the knee skirts are the two perfect lengths for anyone but, if you are going for a midi, the hem should still hit the slimmest part of your calf. High heels are a must too,
unless you are very tall and thin.
My recommendation: for a sure bet, keep it just below the knee, with the hem hitting at the slimmest part of it.

Full Skirts: Dowdy

Full Skirts: Dowdy by Caroline Grant. Although none of these items in itself wrong (although the midi skirt will be really difficult to wear for most), it's the combination that is wrong, and it would remind people of a nun out of uniform. It would definitely be a 70s reenactment moment, what with the blue eyeshadow and soft pink lipstick makeup. Just terrible.

Monsoon Midi Sirt / Orla Kiley Crêpe Blouse / Long Tall Sally Crew-neck Cardigan / Hispanitas Handbag / L.K. Bennett Taylor Wedge Shoes / Yves Saint Laurent Lipstick in Rose Aphrodite / MAC Eyeshadow in Stars N' Rockets.

The right fabric
  • As always, my recommendation is to buy the best natural material you can afford.
  • Choose a material that will drape. Although undoubtedly edgy, leather and other heavy materials are not a good option unless you are thin and tall. Same goes for neoprene, which is quite a frightful thing to see or wear, let me tell you, and only fit for the slimmest and tallest.
  • Avoid dated styling details like dated florals, full skirts, especially in the ladylike version, are already retro enough.

Full Skirts: Too Girly

Full Skirts: Too Girly by Caroline Grant. There is nothing wrong with this outfit if you are under 30, it's fun and flirty (polka dots plus stripes in sunny yellow, navy and gray) and right on trend with the peplum top and jacket. The proportion and the volume, however, make it less than optimal for over 30s.

JCrew Pleated Polka-Dot Skirt / Topshop Sleeveless Boucle Peplum Top / BQueen Texture Jacket / MARC by Marc Jacobs Baxter Handbag / Tory Burch Printed Beverly Pumps / Etro Earrings / Witchery Enamel Bangle Set / NARS Lipstick in Heat Wave / Tom Ford Nail Lacquer in Scarlet Chinois.

The right cut
  • Choose a shape that fits close to your hips and then gradually fuller for the most flattering all-round silhouette.
  • Avoid excessive pleating.
  • Avoid dated styling details like ruffle hems.
  • Avoid all-flounce or all-ruffle skirts or girly prints, you are stepping into girl territory. No tutus (not even Carrie Bradshaw can pull this one off, sorry). If it would look good on an infant, DO leave it on the rack.
Full Skirts: Right on

Full Skirts: Right on by Caroline Grant. Although sometimes Orla Kiely's dresses lack hanger appeal, they are immensely flattering when worn, always ladylike and often quite demure, although very versatile in terms of accessorizing. A dress like this can be accessorized up and down and is a definite staple. 

Orla Kiely Heavy Wool Dress / Hobbs Unlimited Shrunken Tuxedo Jacket / Hobbs Harriet Handbag / Söfft Annabeth Shoes / Pucci Silk Twill Scarf / Daniela Swaebe Dragon Agate Earrings / Anton Heunis Ring / Tory Burch Opera-length Gloves / Dickins & Jones Flower Trim Cloche Hat / Tom Ford Lipstick, Nail Lacquer and Compact in Black Orchid.
In the changing room
Move around in your full skirt in front of the mirror and decide:
  • Does the material hang well? What silhouette does it create for me?
  • The age factor: do I look dowdy or girly or like a grown-up woman?
  • Check that the waistline is not too tight, it will crease immediately and it will be hard to make it recover its shape, if ever.
  • Check the hemline: it has to be perfectly straight. "Ant roads" (as my mother calls such imperfect hemlines) are not an option. Don't reward lazy brands with your money.  
  • Do I have things that go with this item or do I have to buy everything that will go with it?
  • Check the shop's return policy and whether it includes alterations, if you are going to need them.

MORE?
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This is the fourth post in the series dedicated to Full Skirts.

Friday, December 6, 2013

What are full skirts?

A full skirt is one that employs a lot of material and achieves a very full silhouette, optimally, balanced with a small waist.
This can be achieved with different cuts:

With a circle or semicircle skirt, consisting of one or two (semi-)circular pieces cut to accommodate the waist and the zipper.

Semi-circle Skirt

Full skirts 1: Semi-circle by Caroline Grant. A dress in a very fluid material and a semi-circle skirt is a nice spring or summer investment to dress up or down. In this case, you could wear it to a christening or a morning wedding that is not too dressy, as the shoes and the jewellery are occassion-worthy but the jacket and dress are formal but not too formal.

Hobbs Wessex Dress / Rebecca Bouclé Jacket / Badgley Mischka Gayla Shoes / Endless Santi Handbag / Valentino Lace Folded Scarf / Asos Metal Chain Bow Belt / Erickson Beamon In the Mood for Love Ring / Erickson Beamon In the Mood for Love Earrings / Yves Saint Laurent Lipstick in Corail Légende / Yves Saint Laurent Nail Lacquer in Corail Divin.

By adding godets, triangular pieces inserted in the body of the skirt that extend the length of the hem and expand the width of the skirt towards the hem.

Black and Jade



Full skirts 2: Godets by Caroline Grant. The end result of  godets is that most of the volume the pieces created is taken away from the upper hip and created towards the hem.
The sandals are Söfft, one of my favourite shoe brands, as they are as stylish as comfortable with their padded insoles. Every season, Söfft makes many models of pumps that are office worthy, although they are never really dressy, as most of their heels have a wood finish and very seldom leather-covered.

Fair+True Dress / Mango Jacket / Söfft Saint Larouse Sandals / Endless Santi Handbag / Topshop Clip Fasten Clutch Handbag / Shared Earth Animal Print Bracelets / Spiral Wood Earrings / Yves Saint Laurent Lipstick in Rose Aphrodite / Yves Saint Laurent Nail Lacquer in Sorbet Fraise

Through a panelled skirt. Truncated triangular pieces or rectangular ones, sewn together,  or something more interesting in its construction, like in the dress below.

Purple and Beige

Full skirts 3: Open pleats by Caroline Grant. The coat, which also has a full skirt to accomodate the volume of the skirt, achieves it through open pleats, which are not really the best option for those petite or even medium height. The elbow-length gloves compensate for bare arms and keep cold drafts away. These are Dolce & Gabbana, but Zara makes very reasonable priced pairs every season, and those are the ones I own.
I have chosen a nude eye to set off plum lips: such a strong lip colour needs a very neutral eye, and to get it, I have used the Naked 2 palette by Urban Decay, which is just perfect. 
Nude sheer tights, of course
.
Hobbs Philippa Dress / L.K. Bennett Danisi Double-breasted Coat / Hispanitas Handbag / Hobbs Alana Pumps / Kendra Scott Virginia Earrings / Kendra Scott Electra Bracelets / Tom Ford Lipstick in Bruised Plum / Urban Decay Eyeshadow Palette in Nude 2.

With a tiered skirt, resulting in a slightly gathered effect between pieces as they increase in length from the waist down.

Gray and Coral

Full skirts 4: Tiered by Caroline Grant. This take on a tiered skirt by Karen Millen puts is quite beyond the concept of "peasant skirt", as tiered skirts are often known. Karen Millen does a lot of really dressy pieces every year, incredibly well cut although, unfortunately, the materials are not always top-notch, and the prices are not exactly affordable. Most of her pieces suit Body type Cs (I'm a Body type B and find all dresses with pencil skirts impossible to fill in the upper body, I would need a broader back and shoulders), but this skirt is an exception, as it will suit all body types.
A snake print in shades of gray is always and elegant option for pumps.

Karen Millen Graphique Skirt / L.K. Bennett Lyra Top / Hobbs Chiam Jacket / Söfft Moselle Shoes / Marni Woven Leather Handbag / Douglas Rosin Modernist Gold Hoop Earrings (vintage) at 1stdibs.com / Marni Flower Brooch / Urban Decay Palette in Naked / Tom Ford Lipstick in True Coral / Tom Ford Nail Lacquer in Coral Flame.

With pleats, although the amount of material around the waist will be considerable. Consider sewing the pleats down partially. Material simply gathered around the waist will be even more bulky, even if the material is very thin, and there is a serious risk of looking like you decided to tie a sack around your waist, even if you are slim...


Black and Grey



Full skirts 5: Pleats by Caroline Grant. This is one example of new materials used in fashion nowadays: a mix of neoprene and wool. The end result is undoubtely warm, although bulky, so you need a very small waist (in relation to the body), to be able to wear something like this. The thin belt also helps to accentuate the smallness of the waist. Also, as the skirt flows from the waist and has a waistline, it is better to choose a turtle neck top, to keep the torso from looking short.
To accompany a leather skirt, it is best to choose a handbag is suede or a different level of shine, although the combination of leathers will never be as bad as that of boots plus leather skirt, that is best to avoid altogether.

J.W. Anderson Pleated Bonded Neoprene and Wool Skirt / Reiss Bryony Leather Jacket / Ralph Lauren Black Label Cashmere Top / Marissa Bajra Lace Print Fringe Shawl / Hispanitas Handbag / Clarks Asha Booties / Kate Spade Gathered Bow Belt / ZSiska Twist Ring / Miss Selfridge Beret / Tom Ford Lipstick, Nail Lacquer and Compact in Black Orchid .


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This is the third post in the full skirt series.

Thursday, December 5, 2013

Full skirts

A classic style
Why do full skirts keep coming back? Because they are almost universally flattering, as they accentuate the waist, and make it seem small by comparison. The only caveat can be when they achieve excessive bulk, so it is better to keep materials fluid.
It is definitely a very feminine style, so before investing in one, think if you're going to find yourself wearing it often or if it will sit in your wardrobe until you decide to give it away.

A (too) literal recreation would include ALL of the following:
  1. Ladylike kitten-heeled shoes.
  2. Red lipstick for a bombshell look or soft pink for the ladylike.
  3. 1960s accessories: a pair of cat's-eye glasses; a wide, waist-cinching belt (or a skinny one added just for accent); a clutch in a pastel colour; a pair of gloves; a classic headscarf. 
  4. Hair and makeup styles from the late 60's: winged eyes and Brigitte Bardot hairstyles, ie. sultry loose hair, a Bouffant, or a messy knot.
Do instead go for just one of the above or, better still, none at all with your full skirt, especially if you already wore this style in the 1960s, it will look like you never abandoned it!


Ladylike Full Skirt

The Literal Take on Full Skirts by Caroline Grant. A too literal recreation of any era is best left for the under 30s. Here the ladylike kitten-heeled shoes, baby pink lipstick, cat's-eye glasses and the retro bag and the square scarf) make for a strong 1960s déjà vu moment.

Hobbs Philippa Dress / Valentino Cashmere-Silk Cardigan / Valentino Handle Handbag / Ivanka Trump Liorah Pumps / Tarino Tarantino Resin Tulip Earrings / Cat's Eyes France Glasses (vintage) at Etsy / DVF Compact / Yves Saint Laurent Lipstick in Corail Légende / Yves Saint Laurent Nail Lacquer in Corail Divin.

Purple and Beige

The Modern Take on Full Skirts by Caroline Grant. The same dress, with edgier leopard-printed shoes, and a modern colour combination, plum and beige. The coat also has a marked A-line, to accomodate the volume of the skirt, although the open pleats are not the best option (I sometimes stitch them down to the point it is more flattering). The elbow-length gloves compensate for bare arms and keep cold drafts away. I have chosen a nude eye to set off plum lips: such a strong lip colour needs a very neutral eye, and to get it, I have used the Naked 2 palette by Urban Decay, which is just perfect. Nude sheer tights, of course.

Hobbs Philippa Dress / L.K. Bennett Danisi Double-breasted Coat / Hispanitas Handbag / Hobbs Alana Pumps / Kendra Scott Virginia Earrings / Kendra Scott Electra Bracelets / Tom Ford Lipstick in Bruised Plum / Urban Decay Eyeshadow Palette in Nude 2.



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