Friday, December 6, 2013

What are full skirts?

A full skirt is one that employs a lot of material and achieves a very full silhouette, optimally, balanced with a small waist.
This can be achieved with different cuts:

With a circle or semicircle skirt, consisting of one or two (semi-)circular pieces cut to accommodate the waist and the zipper.

Semi-circle Skirt

Full skirts 1: Semi-circle by Caroline Grant. A dress in a very fluid material and a semi-circle skirt is a nice spring or summer investment to dress up or down. In this case, you could wear it to a christening or a morning wedding that is not too dressy, as the shoes and the jewellery are occassion-worthy but the jacket and dress are formal but not too formal.

Hobbs Wessex Dress / Rebecca Bouclé Jacket / Badgley Mischka Gayla Shoes / Endless Santi Handbag / Valentino Lace Folded Scarf / Asos Metal Chain Bow Belt / Erickson Beamon In the Mood for Love Ring / Erickson Beamon In the Mood for Love Earrings / Yves Saint Laurent Lipstick in Corail Légende / Yves Saint Laurent Nail Lacquer in Corail Divin.

By adding godets, triangular pieces inserted in the body of the skirt that extend the length of the hem and expand the width of the skirt towards the hem.

Black and Jade

Full skirts 2: Godets by Caroline Grant. The end result of  godets is that most of the volume the pieces created is taken away from the upper hip and created towards the hem.
The sandals are Söfft, one of my favourite shoe brands, as they are as stylish as comfortable with their padded insoles. Every season, Söfft makes many models of pumps that are office worthy, although they are never really dressy, as most of their heels have a wood finish and very seldom leather-covered.

Fair+True Dress / Mango Jacket / Söfft Saint Larouse Sandals / Endless Santi Handbag / Topshop Clip Fasten Clutch Handbag / Shared Earth Animal Print Bracelets / Spiral Wood Earrings / Yves Saint Laurent Lipstick in Rose Aphrodite / Yves Saint Laurent Nail Lacquer in Sorbet Fraise

Through a panelled skirt. Truncated triangular pieces or rectangular ones, sewn together,  or something more interesting in its construction, like in the dress below.

Purple and Beige

Full skirts 3: Open pleats by Caroline Grant. The coat, which also has a full skirt to accomodate the volume of the skirt, achieves it through open pleats, which are not really the best option for those petite or even medium height. The elbow-length gloves compensate for bare arms and keep cold drafts away. These are Dolce & Gabbana, but Zara makes very reasonable priced pairs every season, and those are the ones I own.
I have chosen a nude eye to set off plum lips: such a strong lip colour needs a very neutral eye, and to get it, I have used the Naked 2 palette by Urban Decay, which is just perfect. 
Nude sheer tights, of course
Hobbs Philippa Dress / L.K. Bennett Danisi Double-breasted Coat / Hispanitas Handbag / Hobbs Alana Pumps / Kendra Scott Virginia Earrings / Kendra Scott Electra Bracelets / Tom Ford Lipstick in Bruised Plum / Urban Decay Eyeshadow Palette in Nude 2.

With a tiered skirt, resulting in a slightly gathered effect between pieces as they increase in length from the waist down.

Gray and Coral

Full skirts 4: Tiered by Caroline Grant. This take on a tiered skirt by Karen Millen puts is quite beyond the concept of "peasant skirt", as tiered skirts are often known. Karen Millen does a lot of really dressy pieces every year, incredibly well cut although, unfortunately, the materials are not always top-notch, and the prices are not exactly affordable. Most of her pieces suit Body type Cs (I'm a Body type B and find all dresses with pencil skirts impossible to fill in the upper body, I would need a broader back and shoulders), but this skirt is an exception, as it will suit all body types.
A snake print in shades of gray is always and elegant option for pumps.

Karen Millen Graphique Skirt / L.K. Bennett Lyra Top / Hobbs Chiam Jacket / Söfft Moselle Shoes / Marni Woven Leather Handbag / Douglas Rosin Modernist Gold Hoop Earrings (vintage) at / Marni Flower Brooch / Urban Decay Palette in Naked / Tom Ford Lipstick in True Coral / Tom Ford Nail Lacquer in Coral Flame.

With pleats, although the amount of material around the waist will be considerable. Consider sewing the pleats down partially. Material simply gathered around the waist will be even more bulky, even if the material is very thin, and there is a serious risk of looking like you decided to tie a sack around your waist, even if you are slim...

Black and Grey

Full skirts 5: Pleats by Caroline Grant. This is one example of new materials used in fashion nowadays: a mix of neoprene and wool. The end result is undoubtely warm, although bulky, so you need a very small waist (in relation to the body), to be able to wear something like this. The thin belt also helps to accentuate the smallness of the waist. Also, as the skirt flows from the waist and has a waistline, it is better to choose a turtle neck top, to keep the torso from looking short.
To accompany a leather skirt, it is best to choose a handbag is suede or a different level of shine, although the combination of leathers will never be as bad as that of boots plus leather skirt, that is best to avoid altogether.

J.W. Anderson Pleated Bonded Neoprene and Wool Skirt / Reiss Bryony Leather Jacket / Ralph Lauren Black Label Cashmere Top / Marissa Bajra Lace Print Fringe Shawl / Hispanitas Handbag / Clarks Asha Booties / Kate Spade Gathered Bow Belt / ZSiska Twist Ring / Miss Selfridge Beret / Tom Ford Lipstick, Nail Lacquer and Compact in Black Orchid .


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This is the third post in the full skirt series.

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